Jason Lance, MD: Did He Fabricate a Crisis on Denali?

 

Jason Lance, MD: Did He Fabricate a Crisis on Denali?

In May 2021, Dr. Jason Lance, a Utah-based radiologist, became the center of a scandal that sent shockwaves through the climbing community. What began as an ambitious summit attempt on Denali, North America’s highest peak, quickly devolved into accusations of dishonesty, reckless decision-making, and a legal drama that has left many questioning his motives.

A Climb Gone Terribly Wrong

Dr. Lance, 48, joined forces with Adam Rawski, a Canadian climber, at the 14,200-foot camp on Denali’s West Buttress route. Though they weren’t officially registered as climbing partners, the two decided to tackle the summit together. However, as they ascended, Rawski began suffering from altitude sickness between 18,600 and 19,200 feet. Instead of staying to assist, Lance left Rawski with another climbing team and continued toward the summit alone—taking Rawski’s Garmin InReach satellite device with him.

The other climbers abandoned their own summit attempt to help Rawski descend. Lance later rejoined the group, and the four began descending Denali Pass without ropes. Tragedy struck when Rawski fell approximately 1,000 feet down the Autobahn, a notoriously icy and treacherous slope. Lance activated the SOS button on the Garmin device, prompting a Denali National Park helicopter to rescue Rawski, who miraculously survived despite severe injuries.

The Alleged Fabrication

After Rawski’s rescue, Lance reportedly sent conflicting messages to park officials. Initially, he claimed there were no injuries but requested evacuation due to a lack of equipment. When instructed to descend using a rope, Lance insisted the group couldn’t do so safely and added that the climbers were in “shock” and experiencing “early hypothermia.” This led the park service to dispatch a helicopter, which was later recalled after guides reported the group was descending on their own.

The other climbers denied experiencing hypothermia or shock, stating they spent hours convincing Lance to descend. Lance allegedly argued that the National Park Service was obligated to rescue them because “we’ve paid our fee.”

The Legal Consequences

Lance was charged with three misdemeanors: interfering with a government employee, violating a lawful order, and filing a false report. He was also accused of deleting messages from the Garmin device after being instructed not to—a move that only fueled suspicions about his actions.

In April 2022, Lance reached a plea deal, admitting to violating a lawful order. The charges of interference and false reporting were dismissed. He was fined 5,000,orderedtodonate5,000,orderedtodonate5,000 to Denali Rescue Volunteers, and banned from climbing Denali for five years.

A Community in Conflict

The incident has divided the climbing community. Some argue that Lance’s actions were driven by the trauma of witnessing Rawski’s fall, while others see his behavior as selfish and irresponsible. Did he fabricate a crisis to save himself? Or was he simply overwhelmed by the situation?

A Stark Warning

The Jason Lance case serves as a sobering reminder of the risks of climbing with strangers and the importance of honesty and accountability in the mountains. It forces us to ask difficult questions: How far would you go to protect yourself? And what price would others pay for your decisions?