Lanvin Grows Up: Peter Copping's Daring Debut Redefines Luxury for Adults
When Peter Copping took the reins at Lanvin in September 2024, the storied French maison was in need of a reset. Tasked with revitalizing the 136-year-old brand—the oldest continually operating couture house—Copping unveiled his Fall 2025 collection at Paris Fashion Week, seamlessly blending Jeanne Lanvin’s legacy with a modern vision of elegance. Critics and audiences alike are hailing it as a return to the “chic ultime” the house once epitomized.
A Homage to Heritage, Reimagined
Copping’s debut paid tribute to founder Jeanne Lanvin, whose designs from the 1920s and ’30s defined empowered femininity. Drawing inspiration from her archives, he revived iconic elements such as capes, ribbon draping, and the robe de style silhouette, reinterpreting them with contemporary flair. A gold lamé gown with a petaled skirt evoked Jeanne’s signature decadence, while Art Deco motifs—drawn from her Paris apartment—adorned velvet capes and tailored coats. Lanvin’s signature blue also made a subtle yet poignant appearance in accessories and set designs.
Sophistication Meets Wearability
The show’s 62 looks spanned daywear to eveningwear, emphasizing timeless staples: trench coats with languid proportions, leather peacoats, and fluid parachute-silk dresses. Cathy Horyn of The Cut praised Copping’s “class act of comfort and chic,” noting his deliberate avoidance of pretentiousness in favor of practical yet elegant designs. Standout pieces included a black sequined knit dress and a bronze tulle apron layered over gold trousers. Menswear, while exploratory, introduced shimmery turtlenecks and mirror-embroidered tees, hinting at future refinement.
Intergenerational Appeal
Copping cast models of all ages, a nod to Jeanne Lanvin’s mother-daughter muse dynamic. This cross-generational approach underscored his belief that elegance transcends fleeting trends. As he remarked, “Family can mean anything… it’s about the people you group around you.” The inclusivity resonated with audiences, as forum reviewers praised the “phenomenal casting” and the outerwear-focused sophistication.
The Verdict: A Promising New Chapter
While some critics found the collection overly broad or restrained, the consensus is clear: Copping’s debut marks a decisive shift toward refined, adult elegance. As Horyn observed, he sidestepped the “overpackaged” luxury trap, offering “something human, direct, and smart.” The show closed to enthusiastic applause—a rarity in today’s phone-obsessed fashion audience—signaling a bright future for Lanvin under Copping’s “capable, inspired hands.”
In a fashion landscape often chasing youth and novelty, Copping’s Lanvin dares to celebrate grown-ups—and does so gloriously.